We Saw Hawaii Today

We've posted pictures and talked enough about the condo in Ko Olina where we're staying in January.  It's beautiful, blah, blah, blah, perfect weather, blah, blah, blah, awesome view, blah, blah, blah.  We saw Hawaii today.

Did you know that palm trees aren't native to Hawaii?  I didn't know that.  They have been brought in by the developers.  In fact, you really only see them around businesses and in the resorts and tourist areas.  The native trees are the most unique I've ever seen.  I now know what a true shade tree is, and I'm pretty sure Dr. Seuss got some of his ideas for trees from a drive up the Kamehameha Hwy.  This is where true Hawaii begins.  North on the 99/Kamehameha Hwy.

The road slowly curves through a valley that is somewhere between an African plain and a tropical jungle.  To both the east and west sides are sloping green mountains, perfectly framing the ocean, which is at a slightly lower elevation a few miles ahead.  Most beautiful place I've ever been.  As you approach the North Shore "Kam Hwy" veers east, and for a few minutes you wonder where the ocean went.

North Shore is practically untouched by developers and ABC Stores (the local tourist store . . . they're everywhere else).  With the exception of the Turtle Bay Resort at the farthest north point, the entire stretch of coast is rustic and very local.  No Wal-Mart, no fast food, no traffic lights.  There's a 2-lane road lined with thick brush, the occasional tiny church, a small grade school, and matted-down grass/dirt spots where people pull their cars to the side of the road to go surfing.  Every mile or so there will be a break in the brush and you'll catch a glimpse of a 20ft wave.  There are small wooden doors peeking through the lush green trees.  Some of them have murals painted on them by local artists.  They hide old-school Hawaiian homes, most with views that are worth far more than their structure.

We happened to find an open "spot" along the side of the road, and when we made our way through a hole in the brush we found an expansive beach hosting a surf competition.  No stands, no parking lots, no big signs.  Just the biggest waves I've ever seen, a bunch of people sitting in the sand, an announcer with a bull horn, and a couple dozen people with expensive cameras.  We stumbled onto the Banzai Pipeline.  Something about a reef just off the coast that makes the waves curl so high that it's a very popular surfing spot.  It was incredible.  Axel was a little disappointed that we wouldn't let him, "water get toes."  (Can you find the tiny surfer in the pic below?)

After watching for an hour or so we decided to find some food.  Since Dan isn't fond of the Food Truck movement, we drove further into Haleiwa.  I have a new favorite town.  Oh, yes.  They cater to tourists.  But NOT in the same way.  Trade the Waikiki tourist shops for local boutiques.  Trade "Pizza Hut" for "Pizza Bob's."  No real sidewalks to speak of or recognizable grocery stores, but plenty to eat and plenty of shopping.

The gem of the town is the 500sqft Waialua Bakery.  There isn't enough room for the line of people or the baskets of fresh produce they use to make their sandwiches and smoothies.  No one minds.  The fresh loaves of bread are cooling on the small half-wall that separates the baking area from the food assembly area.  There is a case full of freshly baked cookies, all $1 each.  A chalkboard hanging above the small counter reads, "Ice Cream Sandwiches $3.50.  Pick your cookies and we'll make it for you."  They have wonder cookie bars 10" long and 5" wide for $2.  I ate one all by myself.  There is no tax at any of the little shops.  I don't know why, but I love it.

If you come to visit, we would love to take you there.  We'll buy your lunch.  You've just got to see it.

Waikiki?

We'll just say it's overrated.  It will take you longer to find parking than it will for you to realize that you were better off on the prettier beaches, far from the ABC Stores, mobs of people and free fliers for nail salons.  If you really want to see Waikiki, then you'd better see it before you see ANY other part of the island.  Unless you want to stand in line for half an hour to go into the Ugg store.

We saw the real Hawaii today.